When you think of African fashion with a high-fashion twist, Lisa Folawiyo is a name that instantly comes to mind. A true pioneer in the industry, she transformed Ankara—once seen as everyday fabric—into luxury pieces that have graced international runways and the wardrobes of global fashion icons. But Folawiyo is not just a designer; she’s a storyteller, weaving culture, craftsmanship, and innovation into every piece she creates.

From her early days launching Jewel by Lisa to becoming a globally recognised fashion powerhouse, Folawiyo has always been ahead of the curve. Her designs have been worn by Issa Rae, Lupita Nyong’o, Solange Knowles, and more. She has taken Nigerian fashion beyond borders, showcasing her collections in New York, London, and Milan.

In this interview with THEWILL DOWNTOWN’s Johnson Chukwueke, we dive into the creative mind behind the brand—her journey, the challenges of building a fashion empire, and how she keeps pushing boundaries in an ever-evolving industry. Beyond the dazzling fabrics and signature embellishments, Lisa Folawiyo shares what fuels her creativity, her thoughts on the future of Nigerian fashion, and a little peek into her world outside of fashion.

 

You’ve been a trailblazer in African fashion with your unique take on Ankara prints. What inspired you to start your journey in fashion design?

It was, for me, the desire to fill an obvious gap that existed in the Nigerian fashion ecosystem. In my opinion, there weren’t enough fashion brands that spoke my fashion language, one that met my personal fashion and style needs. I felt there was a need for a brand that celebrated my identity, culture, and history in a fresh and modern way. And so I thought, ‘You know what? There exists this gap, so I am going to do something about it.’ I set out to do it, and I still am.

I’ve always been passionate about fashion, whether it was me forging my personal style or dabbling and having a say in other people’s fashion choices. So even after studying and practicing law, I was still very much swayed in that direction. From a much younger age, I was able to express an innate creative ability evidenced by my love and ability in fine art, for example, or even my hobbies of creating fashion magazines and writing fiction novels, amongst other things. I guess the steering towards the fashion industry was a truly authentic and inevitable move for me.

How would you describe the evolution of your brand since its inception?

The goal and vision were to create really cool clothes that were modern and fashion-forward. You know, fashion is a universal language, all lines, be they geographical, cultural, political, etc, are blurred. We may come from different parts and places with different customs and beliefs, but fashion represents a uniting force. So, it was me taking something that represented us as Nigerians and Africans to create something that intersected the world. A focus was to take what was deemed popular and traditional in terms of fabric, elevate it, and make it more contemporary and fresher, making it more luxurious and globally desirable. This led to the birth of the embellished Ankara. We introduced hand craftsmanship in the forms of beading and embroidery to this already existing fabric, and this way, we texturised and completely changed its face and people’s idea of the fabric. From a fabric so simple and common to a luxurious, highly coveted fashion symbol. To date, we continue to do what we set out to do, and, God willing, we will continue to do it better, stronger and greater as we evolve.

 

What challenges did you face while establishing a luxury fashion brand in Africa, and how did you overcome them?

I am sure many share this story. Where your passion and dedication to do something far outweighs your means. I was so driven by my vision and dream to make a mark in the fashion space, that money was probably the last thing on my mind. And of course, no one tells you how capital intensive and unpredictable running a successful fashion brand is, and for this reason, funding the business is usually the biggest challenge faced. If I may, I will advise that one starts with whatever little they have and as you get into a rhythm, pursue channels of funding, whether personal, private or public.  Another challenge faced is the scarcity of qualified expertise. Especially in the technical field. So there is a small pool of experts and well-trained tailors, seamstresses, and technical staff. Of course, in an environment that’s not the most enabling for businesses to thrive, there will always be the burden of infrastructural and logistical challenges that have a negative effect on the growth of the business. The truth is there will always be challenges faced, even as your business thrives, but we must begin to see these challenges or setbacks as opportunities for innovation, dynamism, and solutions. My policy remains: ‘Push through and make it work for you.’

Your designs have been featured globally. How do you balance preserving African heritage with appealing to an international audience?

People love beautiful things. People appreciate the love, the workmanship, and the stories behind a piece of clothing. I believe this is what I am here to do as a designer, design and make beautiful clothes from my own unique creative perspective, and interwoven with my own unique stories and excellent craftsmanship. And like I said earlier, beautiful things are appreciated by all and sundry. There is no dividing line. That I am of African heritage, creating and designing beautiful clothes in Nigeria is, in my opinion, what ignites and keeps global attention. Not only am I  able to create and design pieces that anyone who loves and understands fashion can relate to and desire, but also give them an avenue to come into my world, to be able to see fashion through a completely different lens and alter and, or expand their world view and perspective. It’s what the goal and vision have been from the onset. Taking that which is a part of my identity and what is familiar to me, with which I create something that the rest of the world can be a part of.

 

Collaboration is a significant part of the fashion industry. Are there any dream collaborations you’d like to pursue?

I am a big believer in collaboration. Collaborations with other designers, brands, and other creatives open all parties to new markets, demographics, and opportunities they may not have had access to beforehand. So yeah, collaborations are definitely something that I am always looking into enthusiastically. For example, as a sneakerhead, I would love to collaborate with a global sneaker brand. (Just putting out there (laughs); you never know) Having already collaborated with three shoe brands, Shekudo and Zashadu based in Nigeria and one based in America, collaborating with a renowned sneaker brand would be a dream. I am also a believer in collaborating with manufacturing or production hubs. Because, as a chosen model, we practice slower and more sustainable fashion, there sometimes is a need for us to increase production to meet demand, and so working with hubs that are able to offer us solutions in this regard. It is important that as a brand we collaborate with brands that align with our ethos of culture, community, craftsmanship, creativity, innovation, sustainability, and excellence.

 

Can you walk us through your creative process when designing a new collection?

Of course, it always starts with being inspired by something or wanting to express an emotion or mood, reflect on a time, or feel a need to say something in one’s heart. From recalling memories of my childhood and interpretations of my culture to a need to lend my voice on issues pertinent to me to something as simple as a print, artwork, street style, or a particular individual or group of people, I am inspired by many things. Once I begin to think in a certain direction, I start to think on words that express what I want to say. Interesting fact: I surround myself in the studio with words that further reflect my inspiration, and that starts to serve as a design guide. And then sketching begins. I may resort to my archives to revisit old designs and reinterpret them with new sketches. Once I am fully satisfied with the sketches, we begin pattern-making for the pieces that need patterns. Otherwise, we go straight into calico samples. From the first samples, we are able to edit, reconstruct or completely change the design direction. This is usually a long process of fine-tuning, and when satisfied, we begin model fitting, during which fittings continue with the modifications and editing. Alongside this process, or even before, I work with a textile designer on prints for the season. Once samples are approved by the whole team, we go on to production, marketing strategies(shoots, shows, etc), and finally, sales.

 

What exciting projects or collections can we look forward to from Lisa Folawiyo in the near future?

With the brand celebrating its 20th year in 2025, I plan to do something quite exciting to mark our journey so far. Maybe a retrospective where we get to revisit,  rework, and interpret earlier works. Who knows. My hope is always to wake up every morning with the fire and the passion to put my creative juices to work so everything thereon is exciting.

 

Where do you see the Lisa Folawiyo brand in the next five years?

Owning our space and maintaining a model that is authentic to who we are as a brand with continued and even greater global success.

As a mother and entrepreneur, how do you balance your personal life and your thriving career?

God first. And always. All that I am, and I do, is by the grace of God. I am centred by the Word, and by the Spirit of God. He is my help, my peace and my rest. And the unshakeable support of family. I am married to the most wonderful man who gives me the space and freedom to do what I have been called to do: give myself fully to my designer self. My husband creates balance for me, he lifts me up and brings me back to earth. He allows me to be and is such a great support, my number one cheerleader. Both my incredible children are such great support who love and respect what mummy does.

I have learned to use my time wisely, giving my time and energy where and when necessary. I also have a work family, my team, a great team that is able to take the edge off. It’s just knowing where I am needed and when I am needed and giving time where and when necessary.

How do you unwind or find inspiration outside of fashion?

I love to travel not only to unwind but also to explore and search for inspiration. I am also someone who enjoys being on my own, and so being by myself watching mindless TV or flicking through the pages of fashion magazines is so relaxing for me. Especially after a long day when your brain has been overtaxed (laughs). Dinner and long conversations with my husband are food for my soul. Phone conversations with my children(both away for school) bring ease and joy. Exercise is also key. I love to entertain at home with family and friends. I enjoy going to my favourite restaurants and discovering new ones, too. Regular long gisting sessions with my sisters, Karen and Sike, and my sister friends is something I eagerly look forward to. I also let my hair down by dancing and listening to good music.

 

⁠What’s one thing about Lisa Folawiyo that people might be surprised to know?

I am so particular about oral hygiene. Teeth are very important to me. From the way they look and how well we take care of them. I don’t think this is surprising, as I believe everyone feels this way. Hopefully. I also detest flies. Insects generally, but flies most especially.  They just buzz and hang around unnecessarily. Yuck! (laughs).

Johnson Chukwueke
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