In his role as Artistic Director for Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry stands out as the first American to lead a Parisian couture house with such rich history. Hailing from Texas, his career wasn’t focused on traditional haute couture training, instead prioritizing ready-to-wear experiences in New York design houses. This untraditional path hasn’t limited his creative scope and even provides a unique advantage when reviving a historic label like Schiaparelli.

Elsa Schiaparelli, the flamboyant founder, redefined fashion in the 1920s-30s by breaking down barriers between art and design. Her playful collaborations with Surrealists like Salvador Dalí produced instantly recognizable pieces – the playful lobster dress being a prime example. The label thrived until its closure in 1954, leaving behind a dormant legacy for future designers to build upon.

Roseberry embraces both the challenge and the potential of this inheritance. When appointed in 2019, he had only 63 days to develop his debut collection – a demanding timeline that forced him to rely on instinct and vision, rather than dwell on the weight of expectation. The resulting collection showcased both his reverence for the archives and his eagerness to infuse Schiaparelli with contemporary energy. This self-assured perspective reflects Roseberry’s belief that his American outsider status grants him a distinct sense of creative freedom compared to Parisian-trained designers.

Roseberry defines himself as a hands-on, collaborative designer. His work reflects a personal journey rooted in childhood, sketching, a skill cultivated with his mother’s encouragement, remains the initial creative step from which all collections germinate. This emphasis on drawing as the primary form of design communication underscores his artistic approach to garment creation.

His designs transcend the fleeting nature of trends, often referencing historical art movements with audacious twists. Celebrity clients like Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Cardi B, Kim Kardashian, and Michelle Obama are drawn to his sculpted silhouettes and fearless extravagance. These high-profile commissions offer valuable visibility, introducing a younger generation to Schiaparelli’s timeless appeal.

In his most recent collection, “Matador,” Roseberry balances homage with audacious updates. Focusing on textiles and embroidery, the collection subtly evolves from the jewel-laden looks of previous seasons. A dramatic mini dress, adorned with oversized floral sleeves, draws inspiration from a 1937 Schiaparelli design created with French poet Jean Cocteau. This direct reimagination illustrates Roseberry’s keen understanding of how to translate and modernize archival silhouettes for the contemporary luxury market.

Roseberry’s ability to connect Schiaparelli’s avant-garde spirit with current design sensibilities marks a turning point for the house. He successfully navigates the fine line between preserving legacy and introducing a fresh point of view that attracts audiences who see fashion as a high-stakes art form.

Ntianu Obiora
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Ntianu Obiora is a versatile creative professional with over a decade of experience in publishing, marketing, communications, and digital strategy. She is the Online Editor at THEWILL DOWNTOWN