In a recent presentation, Olivier Rousteing, the creative maestro behind Balmain, unveiled the house’s Fall 2024 Men’s Collection, a true testament to the philosophy, “It’s luxury, but it’s definitely not quiet.” The collection is a vibrant celebration of color, intricate prints, metallic sheen, and high-fashion embellishments, marking a bold departure from conventional menswear.

The show commenced with a striking overcoat, meticulously adorned with pea-sized crystals forming a vivid face—a creation birthed from artificial intelligence. This piece remains a Balmain atelier mystery, especially in how the crystals were gradient-colored to produce such a mesmerizing effect.

Rousteing, who has skillfully steered Balmain’s creative direction for nearly 13 years, continues to push boundaries. His latest endeavor involves elevating menswear to parallel the intensity of craftsmanship and expressive freedom often reserved for women’s fashion. Moreover, he seeks to forge a cultural bridge between Paris and Africa, drawing from his own Somali-Ethiopian heritage and upbringing in Bordeaux.

The collection, described by Rousteing as a “rebirth,” borrows liberally from the women’s archives of Pierre Balmain. It weaves together the rich tapestry of codes he has established, with an emphasis on tailoring, while staying true to his avant-garde fashion instincts. The line is envisioned for a man who embodies joy, confidence, and freedom, unafraid of judgment.

Contrary to expectations, the collection eschews skirts, corsets, or pussy-bow blouses. Instead, it revels in audacious color combinations, opulent adornments, and statement jewelry. Notable motifs include red lips and eyes, some with 3D gold eyelashes, adding a playful yet sophisticated touch to turtlenecks and cashmere coats. Additionally, human profiles become a recurring element, bringing a surreal dimension to the garments.

Collaborations with artists Prince Gyasi from Ghana and Ibby Njoya from Cameroon infuse the collection with African artistry, enriching tailored jackets, blousons, and accessories with vibrant faces and patterns. These pieces are emblematic of Rousteing’s vision of his clientele as “the new princes of the world,” oozing luxury and sophistication.

The finale, led by the iconic Naomi Campbell in a classic beige cashmere coat, subtly juxtaposes the collection’s flamboyance, underscoring Rousteing’s belief in the power of individuality over trends. His message is clear: in the world of Balmain, being oneself is the true essence of luxury.

Ntianu Obiora
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Ntianu Obiora is a versatile creative professional with over a decade of experience in publishing, marketing, communications, and digital strategy. She is the Online Editor at THEWILL DOWNTOWN